Sunday 27 November 2011

Winter swells - Surf Total interview



The one I caught was a medium one of the shoulder. It was slightly onshore and impossible to paddle in under the bowl on a 66. Such a rush just sitting there.Check out the shots of one of the biggest wave of my life at http://www.surftotal.com/pt/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=5206:rowan-aishsomewhere&Itemid=14


Saturday 26 November 2011

Calm after the storm

I got back to Portugal after a 70 Hour work week of washing dishes in Zürich. For the next 5 days a storm raged, and totally exhausted I sat on my little couch watching the palm tree battling the weather outside my window.


On the 6th morning the storm broke, the sky was pink and purple, and me and Luis Eyre surfed this very un-secret little right hand slab with no-one out. It was a magical morning. I'll be bringing out a short film with the footage soon.

Cheers to Rui Oliveira for getting the shots!


http://www.surftotal.com/pt/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=5163%3Asess%C3%A3o-de-free-surf-na-praia-da-empa&Itemid=2

Monday 14 November 2011

September Training Sessions



Rowan Aish and Lipke Brothers - September training from Rowan Aish on Vimeo.

It started with a big night in Lisbon. It was Zoe's 21st, and I had the pleasure of meeting Z. Z's the guy who goes to the bar, and instead of a drink, comes back with a full bottle of whisky. Marlon had driven 3 hours from the Algarve for one night out, and a surf at Coxos, but by the time he turned up the bottle was gone. That meant for me and Zoe the night was almost over, but we pulled it together… just, and it ended up being a classic.

The next day Coxos was real fun. Perfect 3 foot little right handers. Marlon was straight out there while I sat on the beach breathing fire, and trying to remember who won the dance off (Marlon did in the third round but it was close). I don't have those big nights as much as I used to, and I don't remember it hurting so much the next day. Is that called getting older? But I do find there's something empowering in being hung over. The rocks seem warmer, the water seems colder, and smiling at average jokes or at people you don't know becomes an unnecessary frivolity. This has significance for a man who smiles allot.

The next day we headed down to the Algarve, because Ericeira is all right handers and reef breaks. Its great for power surfing, but me and Marlon both need to work on getting above the lip, and beachies are better for that. It was also a good excuse to go hang with Melvin, and I love Melvin. Together, we become like two golden labrador puppies holding hands. Not many people can do that to me.

The next 5 days were classic. We surfed every day on one of those secret little banks up the  beach that everyone can see but no-one can be bothered checking out. Marlon helped me sort out my basic bottom turn, top turn combo (which basically came down to getting lower on my Bottom turn, and hitting the lip earlier). In return I made him and Melvin run up and down the beach before paddling out… no need to thank me.



Sunday 13 November 2011

Euro Leg 2011




Alex is unique. He has a little guitar that he carries around with him everywhere he goes. I taught him to play a few basics 7 years ago in Australia, and now he's schooling me. We had allot fun in these months. if we weren't singing our hearts out, both in and out of key, we were getting real deep on the world today.

If the world completely collapses into a state of economical and political chaos, I'll be the first one to join the Chacon commune, somewhere in the recesses of Amazon Jungle coastline, with perfect waves and abundant fruit trees… I hope = ).